As the senior writer for HomeFixated, it seems I spend almost as much time staring blankly at the computer screen as I do testing the latest cool tools. It’s a necessary evil, but sitting at a desk, or the kitchen table, for hours on end isn’t great for the posture, and I frequently end up with a stiff neck. I’ve heard good things about the health benefits of a standing desk, and I’ve thought about getting one for a while now, but the crazy prices they go for made it a low priority. Recently, the priority got bumped up several notches, when I trashed my right knee, making it an excruciating experience to sit down and stand back up. Since there was no corresponding bump up in the budget, I started searching for low-cost options. My search led to the recent purchase of a Husky Adjustable Height Work Table. Grab a seat – or assume a comfortable standing position – and I’ll relate my uplifting saga.
The top priority on my adjustable desk wish list was to get a work surface at a comfortable height. I’m almost 6’2” tall, and I didn’t want to have to lean over to use the standing desk. With the top cranked all the way up, the work surface on the Husky Adjustable Height Work Table is just under 42”, which is a perfect height for me. I wonder if my wife would notice if I raised all our kitchen counters to that height…?
Next on the must-have list was quality. I didn’t want a flimsy desk top that would flex every time I leaned on it. With a solid wood butcher block top 1.2” thick, and a weight capacity of 300 lbs., the Husky Adjustable Height Work Table met that criteria. At 52” wide by 24” deep, the desk surface has plenty of room for everything I want to keep handy. The steel frame is also rugged, made of heavy gauge steel.
I only sacrificed one item on my wish list, and that was more a luxury than a necessity. Many of the high-end adjustable standing desks have a motor to raise and lower the desk top. As you might expect, that little convenience item comes with a hefty price tag. The motorized desks I found had prices starting in the $500 range; the Husky Adjustable Height Work Table was $198.
There are several versions of the Husky Adjustable Height Work Table available; we’ll talk a bit more about that shortly. The two-drawer version I bought, Model # HOLT5202BJ1, is a recent addition to the lineup. Here’s the list of features and specs for that model:
• Table height adjusts from a 26 in. to 39 in. H when using the included leveling feet
• Table height adjusts from a 29 in. to a 42 in. H when using the included casters
• 3 mm steel frame construction with a powder-coated finish to resist rust and corrosion
• 15 lbs. load capacity on top drawer and 35 lbs. load capacity on bottom drawer
• 3 in. x 2 in. PPR swivel casters with locking brakes allow ease in mobility
• 4 leveling feet can be installed to use the table as stationary work area
• 1.2 in. thick solid woodwork surface with protective coating
• Multiple uses and applications
• Top drawer: 40 in. W x 8.12 in. D x 2.25 in. H, bottom drawer: 40 in. W x 16 in. D x 2.25 in. H
• Assembled dimensions (approximate): 52 in. W x 24 in. D x 26 in. to 42 in. H and weighs around 70 lbs. *** SEE COMMENTS BELOW ***
• Packaged/shipping dimensions (approximate): 59.06 in. W x 36.61 in. D x 10 in. H and weighs around 80 lbs. *** SEE COMMENTS BELOW ***
• Backed by Husky’s Limited 3-year Warranty.
The Husky Adjustable Height Work Table – Pick A Flavor
As I mentioned, the Home Depot sells several versions of the Husky Adjustable Height Work Table, in lengths varying from 46” to 72”, with black or white frames, and with or without drawers. The pricing seems a bit arbitrary and random; the version I bought, in white, currently lists for $198. The exact same table in black goes for $269. A 52” version in black without drawers currently sells for $239; an identical model that’s 10” longer is five dollars cheaper, selling for $234.
This variety seems to have caused a bit of confusion in the Specs portion of the description, at least in regard to listing the table’s weight. The web site description for the table I bought lists the table’s weight at “around 70 lbs.” and the packaged weight at “around 80 lbs.” The box begs to differ, listing the package weight at 135 lbs. Whatever the reality, it IS heavy and bulky, so bring a friend.
The folks at the Home Depot will help you cram it into your vehicle, but they declined my polite request to follow me home and lug it inside. My wife has one of those pesky jobs that actually requires you to work, and, inconsiderately, no neighbors were available to assist. Since patience is a virtue I have yet to perfect, I cracked open the box in the car, and schlepped the components in a piece at a time.
The Nuts And Bolts Of The Husky Adjustable Height Work Table
Before you can start working at your sporty new standing desk, there are a few pieces to put together. Fortunately, the Husky Adjustable Height Work Table is well designed, and the instructions are clear and pretty easy to understand.
As I mentioned, the table comes in a fairly large, heavy box. Inside, there are a few other boxes, a couple of hardware bags, and about 3,000 pieces of protective foam. All the necessary parts made the trip, and thanks to all the foam, everything arrived in pristine condition. I snagged a nice, thick piece of foam to use as a makeshift kneeler, since most of the assembly takes place at floor level. You could also use a large piece to protect the table top while that assembly takes place; I used a big chunk of the cardboard box instead.
Gathering the necessary tools for assembling the Husky Adjustable Height Work Table didn’t take long. I rounded up a Phillip’s head screwdriver, a 10 mm wrench (which actually never got used), and a 13 mm wrench. I later ended up grabbing a 13 mm socket with a ratchet and 6” extension; if you have one, grab it, and it will save you some time and muttering later. For the tool-deprived, Husky includes a little cheapo double-sided wrench; you’ll still need to invest in a screwdriver.
You Put Your Right Leg In…
Assembly starts with the right leg, which is the one with the protrusion for the crank handle. Make sure the crank faces toward the front of the table, which is easy to spot because that’s where the “Husky” nameplate is. Note: Facing the table top from the front, the right hand leg actually goes on the end of the table to your left.
Wanna save yourself a little fumbling and grumbling? Before you start attaching the legs to the table, insert the rotating mechanism, which is under the center of the leg assembly where it meets the table, into the rotating rod. It’s trickier to do once the legs are screwed down, as space is tight, and it’s tough to see into the opening.
Once the right side is screwed down good and tight, repeat the process with the rotating mechanism for the left leg assembly, before inserting the screws. You should also leave those screws only partially tightened. Note: To get the rotating rod fully seated onto the rotating mechanism, I had to give a gentle tap or two with a rubber mallet on the side of the leg assembly. Once I did so, it seated perfectly.
Next up, it’s time to install the top rail. In addition to serving as a protective channel for the rotating rod, the 18 screws that attach the top rail stiffen the table top and add rigidity to the legs. Once the screws are all snugged down, the Husky Adjustable Height Work Table is almost ready!
Standing Desk Decisions, Decisions
Along with the roughly 4,000 screws you just tightened (ok, fine – there are actually 36 screws altogether), there’s another bag, containing four bolts and washers. These are used to secure the final structural portion of the Husky Adjustable Height Work Table: The support rail. And YOU get to decide where it goes!
The support rail spans the lower portion of the table, tying together the two leg assemblies. Depending on your preference, the rail can be installed right across the center, or all the way at the rear. Choosing the center gives you a footrest when you’re seated at the table; pushing it to the rear gives you the option to store a chair or other items under the table. I decided to install mine at the rear.
Whichever location you choose, line the support rail up with the two holes at either end, and attach it with the bolts and washers. The sides of the rail make it moderately challenging for someone with fat fingers (me) to get the bolts started. Once you do, those same rails make it fairly tedious to tighten the bolts with an open-ended or box wrench.
After wrestling with the first end, I fetched the aforementioned 13 mm socket, and the job went MUCH faster. Once the rail is secured, don’t forget to tighten up those screws you left loose on the left-side leg assembly.
Where The Rubber Meets The…Floor
And now there’s ANOTHER decision to make. The Husky Adjustable Height Work Table gives you two options for how your table will contact the floor: Leveling feet or rolling casters. Mine came with the leveling feet pre-installed. If that’s your choice, because your table will remain parked in one location, you’re almost ready to rotate your standing desk / work table to its upright and locked position!
If you prefer the option of easy scenery changes, like I do, changing over to the casters is simple: Unscrew the feet, and thread in the casters. Swapping in the casters was fast and very easy, and the casters are excellent quality, nice soft rubber to ensure smooth rollabouts. A locking lever on each caster keeps the table in place until YOU decide it’s time to move.
Five Easy Pieces
As I mentioned, the Husky Adjustable Height Work Table is available in several versions, both with and without drawers. The table I bought has two drawers that can be installed – or not. My first thought was to leave them off, but the installation is so simple, I decided to add them, figuring I can remove them if I don’t like ‘em. Now that they’re installed, I’m glad I have them – who can’t use a bit of extra storage?!
To install the drawers, grab the two side panels, and install one on each side, leaving the screws a little loose. Make sure the glides face each other.
Now screw the back panel to the back end of the two sides, using two screws on each side, and snug them up good and tight. Finish the assembly by tightening the side panels to the table top.
NOW you can flip the table upright – after you snag a helper. Pull the slide mechanisms all the way out for one of the drawers. Hold it out, and start feeding the side rail from the drawer into the channel, then start the opposite rail into its channel. Push the drawer slowly closed, and it should lock into the track. Repeat the process for the second drawer, push the crank handle onto its shaft, and you’re finished!
Both my drawers went in very easily, and the drawers operate very smoothly. They feel sturdy; capacity on the smaller top drawer is listed at 15 lbs., and you can put 35 lbs. of detritus into the larger bottom drawer.
Final Thoughts On The Husky Adjustable Height Work Table
Now that I’ve had the opportunity to use the Husky Adjustable Height Work Table for a few days, I’m VERY happy with my choice. It’s a very solid and stable work surface, with plenty of tabletop space for the way I work. I think it looks great, with a nice clean tech/commercial sort of vibe. It would fit right in at any design studio or modern office, and would be a great choice for pretty much any type of workshop.
As for bang for the buck, I think the Husky Adjustable Height Work Table is an amazing bargain for a budget-friendly standup desk. It’s well designed, and all the assembly holes lined up perfectly. The table went together smoothly, taking me about an hour and 20 minutes to assemble, and it’s now a rock-solid piece of furniture. If you bought something comparable at a furniture store, my guess is you’d pay double the price. I plan to buy another one for my shop, before they figure out their prices are too low.
I’ve discovered that I really like the ability to work while standing. It’s easier on my back, and I think my working posture is much improved. To make it easier on my knee, I switch back and forth between standing and sitting, so I’ve cranked the top up and down several times. My 5’1” wife, who works at a computer almost all day, has discovered that she ALSO really likes the “stand to work” option. As a result, she has right-sized the table for her use a couple of times, resulting in a substantial loss of altitude. It takes a bit of cranking to get it all the way back to the top, but the crank operates smoothly, and it’s good cardio. Nonetheless, I think I’ll look for a higher chair, to eliminate some of the frequent elevation changes.
After the first day of using the Husky Adjustable Height Work Table with my external monitor off to the side, I ordered an articulating arm to hold it. The monitor, that is, not the standing desk. It clamps to the back of the desk, and allows me to get the big monitor at eye level, directly behind my laptop, which cuts down on the neck craning. As a bonus, it frees up some real estate on the desktop. I think it’s thirty bucks well spent.
My guess is the Husky Adjustable Height Work Table lineup was probably originally intended for use in workshops or by crafters and hobbyists. As evidenced by comments in the numerous, overwhelmingly positive reviews, a large percentage of buyers are doing exactly what I did: Snagging a high-quality, low cost adjustable height standing desk. If you’ve always wanted to try a new position, check out the lineup of adjustable height tables at the Home Depot. The tables are backed by a three-year limited warranty, and if you don’t feel totally uplifted, they’re returnable for 90 days.
Buy the two-drawer Husky Adjustable Height Work Table from the Home Depot:
Check out the Husky Adjustable Height Work Table lineup at the Home Depot:
52 thoughts on “Standing Desk on a Budget – Husky Adjustable Height Work Table”
Hi Phil, sorry to bother you again. But I forgot to ask you one last question. What’s the inside length between the feet of the Husky table? And how wide are the feet? Knowing how wide, allows me to know the distance between the feet for the four different length Husky adjustable tables (46″, 52″, 62″, 72″). Thank you very much in advance, ?.
Hey, Nick, sorry I somehow missed your comment. Pre-holiday insanity is the likely culprit, and I apologize. If you still need this info, I just measured, and the dimensions are as follows:
Distance between the feet is 46-1/2″
Width of the feet is 2-3/4″
Length of the feet (front to back) is 24-1/2″
Hope this was helpful, and sorry again for the delay.
Hi Phil, firstly- terrific article. Exceptional detail with descriptions and photos. I appreciate the info. A quick question for you- and anyone who may own this particular model: How comfortable is the sitting position with the 2 drawers over your knees/lap? It seems to be a large distance from your knees to the desk surface and looks like it may be awkward. I read where you are now using a draftsman type chair now, but thought in the beginning, you might have encountered some difficulty. I’m tall like you- and a big guy too so it makes a difference for the sitting part! Thanks so much, Troy.
PS- Read your bio. You are a true Renaissance man! Guessing you have a few stories!
Howdy, Troy – Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the article. I measured the distance from the top surface of the desk to just under the bottom drawer, and it’s just under 7″. Whether that spacing is comfortable or not comes down to personal preference, I guess. Most of the time, I’m fine with it; once in a while I wish I could be up just a LITTLE higher. So far it hasn’t bothered me enough to remove the drawers, but if it ever does, that’s a quick and easy fix. The desk has held up nicely, and I’m still very happy with the purchase.
As for being a Renaissance man, I don’t know about that. I’m game to try just about anything, though, for better or worse. And yes, I could tell some tales, but to protect the innocent, I’ll decline…Merry Christmas, and good luck with your desk!
Does anyone know thw weight of the top that comes as part of this desk? Does anyone know how much total weight the leg assembly can support? I would like to mount a desktop to the Husky legs that I own. The weight of my desktop is 55 lbs. + 20 more for laptops, etc.
Hi, Jasper – I’m not sure how much the top weighs by itself, but it’s fairly heavy. Husky states that the weight capacity of the desk is 300 lbs., so if the Husky legs you own are the same as those on this desk, supporting the desktop and additional weight you mentioned should be no problem.
Great review, and I appreciate time has passed since your original post…. Anyway, on the off chance you still read this I was wondering…
As I’m 6’4 this just seems sadly too short for me… supposedly 47” is my correct height for a desk. Do you think there’s any way, any how to add 5 inches on this desk ?
stick some bed risers under the feet?
I can’t get my crank to turn? I saw a few complaints like this on Amazon as well. I haven’t tried to use force. I’m 70 yrs led and carried all the pieces upstairs so the thought of returning the table doesn’t seem realistic.Thanks for any suggestions
When it came time to attach the top rail the bolts did not fit the holes. They were all bigger than than the holes. Of coarse because I ordered it from Home Depot web site, the store won’t help other than being able to return the table. There is no contact for Husky itself, the help line for Home Depot is one menu after another, and their website has several complaints about this problem. Did anyone else have this problem, and if so how did you resolve it. I really need this table to work for my heavy duty sewing machines.
Hi, Dawn – Sorry to hear they sent the wrong bolts; it’s pretty frustrating to start putting something together, only to have to stop, with parts all over the place, because something is missing. Husky does have its own customer service number; you should be able to get them at 888-434-8759. Their posted hours are Mon – Fri 8 a.m. – 7 p.m. and Sat. from 9 – 6 EST. Hopefully they can get you squared away quickly; let us know how you make out, and good luck…
Love all the puns and humor in your writing. I can very much relate to ripping open the box in the car and lugging in furniture piece by piece when nobody was around to help. Glad to hear this is a sturdy desk! Going to pick one up for a treadmill desk.
Dang – if you can work at your desk and get in a treadmill workout at the same time, you’re a lot more coordinated than I am! Admittedly, that’s not a high bar…Hope you get some help lugging it in, and thanks for your comments!
Thank you for this post. Very helpful. My desk is on order and I am getting ready for the project.
Have you (or anyone else on the thread) tried to refinish the desktop (wood)? I am thinking of trying to stain it darker. Would welcome any advice.
I haven’t changed the finish on my desk, but I suspect if you give the surface a good sanding, you could add a darker stain. You might want to try an inconspicuous spot on the underside first, in case it doesn’t go well. If anyone else has tried this, feel free to chime in, and if you do it, let us know how it goes!
Great and excellent article for standing Desk,
I am also using this kind of Standing desk and feeling very happy because that desk helps me a lot in my daily routine activities.
Specially I mostly used it during Covid Crisis and I love that setup.
I am very thankful to the writer for sharing such kind of great words for online audience
Pictures which you have shared in that article are amazing and Excellent.
Again Thank you so much
Thanks for the kind words! My guess is that with so many people working from home because of Covid, a LOT of them are discovering the benefits of a standing desk. Stay safe!
Phil, thanks for these visual steps & the recommendation of the 13 mm socket ratchet and 6” extension. Worked a treat. Has anyone found that the wheels make indentations on regular household hardware floors over time. I’m thinking of putting some pads down under the wheels (as I might not need to move it that much)
Glad the post was helpful, Paul. My desk sits on an oak hardwood floor, and rarely gets moved, and so far I’ve had no issues with indentations. That said, the desk is pretty heavy, and a set of pads would be a cheap insurance policy!
Thanks for this great review! Mine was already on order when I ran across this, but you really helped me know exactly what I’d be getting into with assembly (and I felt even more certain I’d made a good decision after I read this). Looking forward to getting all my PC stuff moved over and standing to work!
I’ve been very happy with mine. It’s great to be able to alternate between sitting and standing, and the desk is very sturdy, and holding up great. And you sure can’t beat the price! Enjoy!
Wow, I really wish I could buy the drawer separately for the 62″ black version I have.
It looks like Husky made a 62″ version with drawers, although it doesn’t seem to be currently available. You might try contacting Husky, to see if they offer the drawer assembly through their parts and service department. The number is 1-888-HD-HUSKY
Love it! I wanted the 46″ 2-drawer in white, but they were out of stock everywhere in my area. I walked into my local Home Depot last week and there on display was a white, 2-drawer 52-inch. They had two in stock, but I asked if I could buy the one on display. To my great joy, they said “Sure!” Ha! No assembly required! The 6-inch size difference was not a deal-breaker and, in the long run, I will appreciate the extra work area.
I am using a counter-height chair with it, which allows me to use the table at the same height whether sitting or standing.
That’s what I did, too, Bev. The taller chair saves me cranking the table up and down (not that I couldn’t use the exercise…). I’m still VERY happy with my desk, and I’m glad you stumbled across one that works for you – and you didn’t even have to use our amazing directions! Enjoy!
Any idea if a wider work surface could be substituted (i.e. 30″ instead of 24″)? I would like to have a larger work surface; thinking maybe a butcher block countertop could be shoehorned onto the table?
I don’t see why not. You’d have to come up with some other fasteners to attach the work surface to the base/legs, since the top that comes with it has the female threaded portion of the fasteners recessed into it. You could always just add a piece of wider butcher block to the top of the original table, once it’s assembled, and attach it with screws coming up from below and/or some construction adhesive.
3M VHB tape. $7 a roll on Amazon. Used to hold the windows onto skyscrapers. Rated to replace screws, nails, rivets, and welds in structural application. An inch of VHB tape holds over 30 pounds; run a strip down each side of the table and one strip across the table and you’ll be able to easily pick up the table by holding just the top.
Dang! I don’t own a skyscraper, but I believe I’ll invest in a roll of that tape! Thanks for the tip!
Okay maybe don’t use that much tape. I 3M VHB taped my standing desk tabletop to my Ikea Ideasen base. I did what I wrote: strips down the sides, and strips down the middle. I don’t think this tabletop is coming off without a Sawzall. I dragged my desk around the house by holding just the tabletop and nothing has budged an inch.
I think what’s going to eventually happen is that I’ll invest in an M18 Sawzall and have to cut off the tabletop, piece by piece. Fortunately, the tabletop was inexpensive. It was salvaged from a manual, crank-style standing desk that I got from Amazon for $200. Not a particularly fancy or expensive tabletop.
I guess that qualifies as a teachable moment: Don’t use that tape unless you are fully committed. On the bright side, you now have an excuse to buy a Sawzall!
I don’t like to be on a budget.
No one likes to be on a budget. Sadly, those of us who are not in the top 1% of wage earners sometimes find it necessary.
Phil. Do you know how deep the legs are? are they 24″ or is it less like the top brackets?
The legs are centered, the distance is about 10-1/2″ from the edge of the table top to the edge of the legs. Hope this is the dimension you were after.
I probably did a bad job describing. I’m looking for dimension from the front to back of the leg base (the part just above the wheels). I would guess its about 22″-24″. I need to trim the top so it’s not so deep and I’m trying to see how much I can trim without the feet sticking out past the front or back. Thx.
Aha…OK, the base is actually about 24-1/2″ from front to back. The upper side supports are 22-1/2″ long, and they’re recessed about 3/4″ from the front and back edges of the table top, which is 24″ deep. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news (don’t kill the messenger!), but since the base is already wider than the top, you wouldn’t be able to trim anything off the top without having the feet protrude.
Hi Phil, I was so happy to find your in-depth explanations! I am building this in my sewing room and ran into a problem installing the top rail. While the m6 screws fit beautifully into the wood top, they don’t want to screw into the six holes on either end that attach to the legs. It feels like the threads wont’ fit. i’m afraid to use force that might strip the threads? Did you run into this issue?
Hi, Robin –
Hmmm, no – all my screws went in OK. Do the holes line up right with those on the legs? If they’re a bit off-center, that might be making it a tighter fit. If so, you could try slightly loosening the screws that hold the leg assembly, which might allow you to get the holes aligned better. You can also try rubbing the screw threads on a bar of soap; sometimes a bit of extra lubing will help them go in.
If that doesn’t work, you could take the top rail off (yes, there ARE a lot of screws!), and see if the screws will thread into the holes in the leg; that will tell you if it’s an issue with bad threads in the legs. At this point, you can use a little extra force to try to get the screws in; hopefully it will work, and if not, because the threads in the legs are bad, you’re going to have to have them replace the leg assemblies anyhow. Good luck, let us know if you get it together!
Hi Jonathan, thanks very much for posting that great review. What’s the inside length of the bottom drawer? I’m thinking of this as a music workstation, and I have a midi-keyboard that’s 39.6″ long by 11.7″ deep/wide by 3.3″ high. Will it fit in the bottom drawer if I don’t use the top drawer?
Hi, Nick –
Ooooh, close – VERY close – but no cigar. The inside dimensions are 39-1/8″ x 16″ deep x almost 5″ of height, if you left out the top drawer. Here’s something that might work, though: The sides of the drawer are about 1-3/8″ high. If you plane down a piece of 2×4 to that thickness, or find some other material to act as a support on each side of the drawer (for the keyboard to rest on), that would allow it to overhang the edges of the drawer. From the top edge of the side walls to the desk top is just under 3-3/4″, which should be plenty of clearance for your 3.3″ high keyboard. You would have to leave out the top drawer, and remove its slide mechanism. With those modifications, you should be good to go!
Thank you very much Phil, and sorry for getting your name wrong in my earlier post! Thanks also for the advice on the 2×4. Hopefully Home Depot can cut a wooden plank to the dimensions of the bottom drawer area and make it as thick or as high as the sides of the bottom drawer 1-?”. Thanks again very much for those measurements, 🙂
Sorry Phil, just one more question. Regarding the inside width of the drawers, on Home Depot’s web site, the Husky table schematic says the drawer is 40″ wide. Do you suppose they’re measuring the width of the drawer’s metal bar that you grab to open the drawer? Because if the inside width of the drawer is 39-? then I guess my 39.6″ midi keyboard won’t fit.
Hey, Nick –
I popped out the top drawer to check the dimensions. Here’s the deal: The front of the drawer, with the handle, is indeed 40″ wide. The interior space is also 40″ – IF you remove the top set of slides. However, there’s another issue: The top crossbar/support bracket is only 10-1/2″ back from the front edge of the table top. (You can see the parts I’m talking about in image no. 19). This means that the keyboard should fit, but you won’t be able to close the drawer all the way; it will stay open about 2″. If you’re OK with that, it should work.
Thanks very much for getting back to me Phil. Since I was planning on not installing the top drawer or top rails, just the bottom one, do i still need to install the crossbar? Isn’t it there to stop the top drawer sliding further inside? Thanks again very much fro your help Phil.
Hey, Nick – Unfortunately, the crossbar does have to be installed. It ties the leg brackets together, strengthens the table, and serves as a cover for the rotating rod, that raises and lowers the table.
Oh I see. Phil, do you know how much vertical distance there is between the base of the bottom drawer and the crossbar? Just so how I know how much vertical space I have to work with? I would need to elevate the keyboard a little but hopefully not too much so that it would hit the cross bar when I close the drawer. As I don’t have either table or piano, all the information you kindly gave me as invaluable, thanks again Phil!
I’ll be happy to check that for you, but it will be a few days, since the table and I are currently in different locations.
No worries, thank you so much Phil! ?
Agreed, Jonathan – it’s a rock solid desk, and if you ever decide to give up the paper chase, drag it out to the garage or shop, and you’ll have a rock-solid work bench!
This is a golden post. Thanks for the standing desk suggestion Phil. I currently use an IKEA Galant desk permanently adjusted to the highest position. I think it’s time for an 2020 upgrade to this Husky model. I would much rather have a workbench instead of a wobbly motorized standing desk. Husky did a great job with the design by placing the stabilizing bar on the bottom.
Agreed, Jonathan – it’s a rock solid desk, and if you ever decide to give up the paper chase, drag it out to the garage or shop, and you’ll have a rock-solid work bench!